Or Kirkby Lonsdale, to give it its modern name. This wonderful, ancient town is chock full of atmosphere, with an amazing setting on a bend in the River Lune amidst rolling fields and hills.
The town dates back to at least Norman times (the church has some fine Norman architecture including not one but two doorways) and is a maze of narrow winding streets around a market place, with a series of ‘yards’ running off at right angles to the main street. It’s not big – the population is less that 2,000 – but the centre is stuffed with independent shops, cafes, restaurants, and pubs including the wonderfully-named The Snooty Fox!
We haven’t been for years; the last time we visited was after heavy snowfall when the roads and pavements were distinctly treacherous. I remember dashing straight into the comforting warmth of the town bakery for a coffee, and being distinctly reluctant to come back out again! This morning, although not much warmer, it was at least more secure underfoot and we managed a good mooch round the streets, the churchyard, and along a path to the famous Ruskin’s View, overlooking the river.
We’d have walked further but sadly the river has taken its toll on the path, which has been undermined so badly it’s no longer safe. I stopped long enough to take some lovely photos, though, and it was nice to go somewhere a bit different for a change.